HOW TO MAP YOUR BROWS

When I used to run my treatment room one of my favourite treatments to do was mapping someone’s eyebrows. Especially if someone came in having never had their brows shaped before the difference 20 minutes can make is astounding. Eyebrows really help to frame the eyes and the whole face but it is perceived as such a dark art to get the right shape. If you are new to brow mapping or just want to up your brow game this blog is for you!

In this blog I will talk about the process I would follow to shape someone’s brows for their face shape.

Perfect Brows and your face shape

Your face shape can impact what shape your brows should be so its always worth keeping the following in mind when mapping out your brows.

Oval Face Shape
If you have an oval face the ideal brow shape would be a soft angled shape. Your brows would be shaped up and have a soft gentle curve at the top before going down towards your ears.

Heart Face Shape
The ideal brow shape for someone with a heart shaped face is a high soft curved arch or a low soft curved arch. This will help to soften your face.

Round Face Shape

If you have a round face shape you would ideally want to use your brows to try and elongate your face shape. This can be achieved by having a high arched brow that follows a straight line to the peak of your brow and creates more vertical lines.

Square Face Shape

If you have a square face shape your ideal brow shape is to have either a soft brow with a gentle curve or to match the strong jaw line or strong brow line to match. A distinct peak at the top of the brow will help to ensure that your brows stand out and a strong colour will suit you more.

So now you have a rough idea of what shape best suits your face shape lets start mapping those brows!

ONE

Start with inside brow, hold the line tool to the edge of your nose going straight up your face. This is the point where your brows should start. Mark this with your pencil. This is shown as line 1 in the graphic below.

TWO

Next we will mark where the arch of your brow should be. With your line tool in the same place at the bottom of your nose move the top at an angle so that it goes straight over the iris of your eye, where this meets the top of your brow this is the highest point of your natural arch. This is shown as line 2 in the graphic below.

THREE

Finally move the line tool so that it goes straight over the edge of you eye on the furthest side. Where this meets your brow this should be the furthest point of your brows. This is shown as line 3 in the graphic above.

FOUR

Now that we have the initial lines join them up around your natural brows. Your brows should be pretty even going from the centre of your face to the arch and from the arch to the end should gently taper out.

FIVE

This is your basic three point brow mapping technique. Fill in this area use short hair like strokes using your pencil or powder with a brush. Always make sure you are following the same direction as your hair.

SIX

Use your line tool to create a line that runs from the top of your eyelids to either side of your brows. This is the lowest point where the brows should start at either side.

SEVEN

Normally the width of your brows near your nose is actually the right width for your face. Using the white pencil and your line tool follow this line across to where you brow arches. After the arch your brows should gently temper off into a point. This should then give you a brow area to shade with your pencil or eyebrow powder. Always shade with the direction of hair growth.

SHAPING

If you need to perform some hair removal outside of these lines use your preferred method and work slowly. I would always advise against removing any hair from within the mapped area of your face.