When I used to run my treatment room one of my favourite treatments to do was mapping someone’s eyebrows. Especially if someone came in having never had their brows shaped before the difference 20 minutes can make is astounding. Eyebrows really help to frame the eyes and the whole face but it is perceived as such a dark art to get the right shape. If you are new to brow mapping or just want to up your brow game this blog is for you!

In this blog I will talk about the process I would follow to shape someone’s brows for their face shape.


Perfect Brows and your face shape

Your face shape can impact what shape your brows should be so its always worth keeping the following in mind when mapping out your brows.

Oval Face Shape
If you have an oval face the ideal brow shape would be a soft angled shape. Your brows would be shaped up and have a soft gentle curve at the top before going down towards your ears.

Heart Face Shape
The ideal brow shape for someone with a heart shaped face is a high soft curved arch or a low soft curved arch. This will help to soften your face.

Round Face Shape

If you have a round face shape you would ideally want to use your brows to try and elongate your face shape. This can be achieved by having a high arched brow that follows a straight line to the peak of your brow and creates more vertical lines.

Square Face Shape

If you have a square face shape your ideal brow shape is to have either a soft brow with a gentle curve or to match the strong jaw line or strong brow line to match. A distinct peak at the top of the brow will help to ensure that your brows stand out and a strong colour will suit you more.


So now you have a rough idea of what shape best suits your face shape lets start mapping those brows!


Something straight (such as another pencil, ruler or piece of cotton, ill call this ‘the line tool’ going forward)

A white Pencil

Something to colour in your brows such as an eyebrow powder or pencil. (The shade you use should match the colour of your roots)

You may also want something to shape your brows such as tweezers, threading cotton or some wax/sugar paste


Start with inside brow, hold the line tool to the edge of your nose going straight up your face. This is the point where your brows should start. Mark this with your pencil. This is shown as line 1 in the graphic below.



Next we will mark where the arch of your brow should be. With your line tool in the same place at the bottom of your nose move the top at an angle so that it goes straight over the iris of your eye, where this meets the top of your brow this is the highest point of your natural arch. This is shown as line 2 in the graphic below.


Finally move the line tool so that it goes straight over the edge of you eye on the furthest side. Where this meets your brow this should be the furthest point of your brows. This is shown as line 3 in the graphic above.



Now that we have the initial lines join them up around your natural brows. Your brows should be pretty even going from the centre of your face to the arch and from the arch to the end should gently taper out.



This is your basic three point brow mapping technique. Fill in this area use short hair like strokes using your pencil or powder with a brush. Always make sure you are following the same direction as your hair.


Following on from this 3 point mapping you can add additional mapping for the thickness of the brows. If you would like to continue mapping you can add the following:


Use your line tool to create a line that runs from the top of your eyelids to either side of your brows. This is the lowest point where the brows should start at either side.



Normally the width of your brows near your nose is actually the right width for your face. Using the white pencil and your line tool follow this line across to where you brow arches. After the arch your brows should gently temper off into a point. This should then give you a brow area to shade with your pencil or eyebrow powder. Always shade with the direction of hair growth.



If you need to perform some hair removal outside of these lines use your preferred method and work slowly. I would always advise against removing any hair from within the mapped area of your face.


If you really want to accentuate your brows more use a little highlighter just under the brow line to make them pop!

The perfect brows really are that simple! And as you get used to following this process you will start to be able to do it without the line tool and just know where to fill.

If this blog has inspired you you can check out all of our cruelty free, vegan, natural Brow Makeup here!


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